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Kirby Morgan does not handle used equipment, condemned helmets and/or mask frames. We are strictly a production facility and advise that you contact our authorized dealers if you are looking to buy or sell new or used equipment.  If you have had a unit stolen and need a value for insurance purposes, we (or your dealer) will be happy to provide you with the current retail price to serve as a replacement value.  If you are able to provide us with the serial number we will be happy to give you the age of any unit. However, despite the age, condition can vary greatly from unit to unit depending on usage & maintenance history. For these reasons it is impossible for us to appraise the value of a unit from a serial number or a photo. Proceed with caution on any used gear purchases. If you are able to, have the used equipment inspected by certified, factory trained personnel (most Kirby Morgan dealers) prior to purchase. Most importantly, if bought used, always have your life support equipment inspected as described above before use!  Our website Dealers page will show all KM dealers and include information as to whether or not they are a factory certified inspection & maintenance facility.

Yes. The non-wing style are still available! Just ask for 510-766, 510-767 starboard and port whiskers. They are for use on units with quad/tri valve exhaust assemblies.

A

Have you seen what appears to be rust? Kirby Morgan would like to assure all dealers and SS helmet owners, that the helmet  shells are not actually rusting. All of these helmet shells and other main components, are cast and machined from a highly corrosion resistant grade of 316L stainless steel. The investment casting process can produce a very good finish, but this still requires more processing to be acceptable. Each helmet shell is initially hand finished, then, it is processed to a very smooth surface using specialized friction finishing equipment. Even after all this processing, these smooth surfaces will still have small surface porosity that can trap foreign matter, some of which can “rust”. This is what will make the surfaces appear to be rusting. This foreign matter that may be trapped, needs to be cleaned away, and the surfaces need to be protected. Basic cleaning and protection should be performed on a regular basis and may need to be performed more often depending on what type of environment the helmets are used in. NOTE, This “Rusting” issue can also be seen on Fiberglass helmet shells and chrome plated brass parts. It is what is stuck to those surfaces that is “rusting”. Not the fiberglass or chrome.

Cleaning Procedures for the stainless steel helmet
Thoroughly clean the components with a cleaning soap such as Simple Green. A soft scrubbing tool can help to remove excess materials.  See figure 1

Dry the components and wipe completely with Isopropyl alcohol and allow to evaporate.  See figure 2.
 
Using  a kitchen sponge with an abrasive side. Wet and apply hand soap that contains a slight abrasive (LAVA hand soap works very well, or Go-Jo Pumice, citric hand soap), and simply rub onto the affected area of the helmet shell. The unwanted stains will easily be removed.  See figure 3
 
NEVER USE STEEL WOOL TO PERFORM THIS TASK. It will deeply embed iron particles into the stainless and may cause severe rusting to the component.

Citric acid or diluted vinegar can be used to passivate stainless steel and remove any light rust. A lemon half works well as a scrubbing tool, and at the same time provides the citric acid to help eliminate small surface particles of rust. Allow enough liquid to deposit on all affected surfaces and allow it to settle for at least 30 minutes. Rinse and re-apply as needed. Rinse again and finish wipe with the Isopropyl alcohol allow to dry completely. Apply at least 2 coats of a good quality paste wax. This will help seal surface porosity to prevent foreign matter from being trapped, which may then rust.  
See figure 4.

It is best to clean as much of the helmet surfaces as possible, rather than cleaning only affected areas, as this will help prevent any future issues. A basic cleaning and waxing procedure should be performed as part of a routine cleaning regiment.

Kirby Morgan suggests the use of lemon juice/lemons, or vinegar for the source of acid. These types of acid will help dissolve certain stains, rust and certain residue buildup such as hard water and mineral deposits. Because they are natural and non-toxic, Kirby Morgan highly recommends them for this procedure.

B

Below are the links to the two products we recommend (E-NOX Clean and UNO SF, by Walter Surface Technologies).

Please follow the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding use.
Step #1 for your Stainless Steel Shell or Pod.
Use E-NOX Clean - Cleaner/Brightener Gel. Here is the link:
http://www.biocircle.com/en_US/products/environmental-solutions/industrial-cleaning-degreasing/e-nox-clean

Step #2 for your Stainless Steel Shell or Pod.
Use UNO SF (as a neutralizer) – High Strength Degreaser. Here is the link:
http://www.biocircle.com/en_US/products/environmental-solutions/industrial-cleaning-degreasing/uno-s-f

For more information regarding cleaning procedure "B" see Bulletin #4 of 2014.

C

Kirby Morgan has recently found, tested and approved an excellent cleaner for the Stainless Steel Helmet Shells, Innosoft B570®, and protector, Innoprotect B580®. They are fast acting, ready to use and 100% organic.

Highly corrosion resistant 316L stainless steel was chosen for the helmets listed above. Though the shells are exceptionally smooth and shiny, it is normal to have a certain amount of porosity on metal surfaces. The appearance of “rust & rust spots” may occasionally form. This is oxidation, not of the stainless steel, but of tiny amounts of foreign material trapped in the surface porosity.

For more information regarding cleaning procedure "C" see Bulletin #12 of 2016.

FINISH CARE IS A PART OF REGULAR MAINTENANCE.

NOTE: All new stainless helmet shells are electro chemical cleaned (electropolished) and friction polished to a very smooth exterior surface finish. If so desired, the surface can be brought to a higher luster using basic polishing techniques, (i.e. polishing compounds and light buffing techniques).